‘Baking a sweet potato whole is, in my opinion, one of the greatest ways to cook it. The skin caramelises so perfectly and the insides are soft and sweet yet earthy at the same time. This recipe is simple but effective, with a subtle crunch from the chickpeas that really lifts the dish, and a creamy dressing to finish it off, creating the perfect balance of textures and flavours. A handy week-night dish that also makes great leftovers!’

● 4 medium sweet potatoes

● 600g cooked chickpeas (2 × 400g tins, drained, or 300g dried)

● 2-4 tbsp olive oil

● 4 heaped tsp ground cumin

● 2 heaped tsp ground coriander

● 2 tsp smoked paprika

● 1 tsp ground cloves

● 1 tsp ground turmeric

● 5 cloves garlic, crushed or finely chopped

● A hefty pinch of salt

● 2 tsp fine or coarse black pepper

● A small handful fresh coriander, finely chopped, stalks included

● 1 lemon, juiced, ½ zested

● 3 spring onions, finely chopped

● Fresh chives (optional)

For the dressing:

● 2 lemons, juiced, ½ zested

● 2-4 tbsp tahini (depending how thick you want your dressing)

● 2 level tbsp Dijon mustard

● 1 tbsp chilli sauce (optional)

● 2 tbsp soya sauce or tamari

● 2 tsp apple cider vinegar

● 2 tsp dried oregano

● Water, or plant-based milk for a creamier option

Waste-not tips

You can use a variety of sweet potatoes instead of regular orange ones: purple skin and white flesh or orange skin and white flesh. You could incorporate harissa or pesto in this dish, serving as a dollop on top or adding to the chickpeas.

The Whole Vegetable by Sophie Gordon (Penguin, £25) is out now.

Photograph: Issy Croker